Friday, March 09, 2007

Meet Lucy, She’s Been Around the Block……




This is Lucy, thought to be the oldest set of fossilized human bones in existence. They believe her remains are 3.2 million years old. Her brain cavity was about the size of a chimpanzees’ but she did walk upright. I’m going to resist any jokes here because it was a really impressive visit to the Ethiopia National Museum this afternoon. I took a tour this afternoon and we also went up to the mountain overlooking Addis Ababa—the second highest spot in Ethiopia. On the way we drove through villages that looked like something out of Biblical times. The mountain is covered in eucalyptus trees and every morning women walk up the mountain and cut the young trees at the top, bundle them into very large bundles, and then carry them on their backs down the mountain (all the time they’re barefoot) to sell as firewood. Usually they’re very old women and I wonder how they can even pick the bundles up much less walk down a mountain to sell them every day. And remember, they have to walk up the mountain in the mornings.
Here’s a picture of a very common street seen in Ethiopia. This one was taken on the mountain road but you see this everywhere in the city as well the only variation might bee sheep, cattle or goats rather than donkeys. If you can, click on the picture and zoom in and look at the old woman in the upper right with one of those massive bundles of eucalyptus.
I also visited one of the Ethiopian Orthodox Churches here in Addis Ababa. They are literally everywhere but I visited the Trinity Haile Selassie—so named because Emperor Saile Selassie had it built for his coronation in the 1940s. Although he was eventually deposed in a coup he is still very revered here today especially for his resistance to the Italian occupation during WWII. I didn’t know it but Ethiopia is one of the few parts of Africa to never be colonized by European powers. The Italians occupied the country twice for short periods but never succeeded in colonizing it.
The church was built for his coronation and is unusually new and modern in this ancient city. It has beautiful stained glass windows throughout and the Orthodox Church is in the middle of Lent now (they fast for 55 days—literally not eating until late afternoon). You remove your shoes upon entry and women move to one side and men to the other and they worship separated by the center isle of the church. I don’t think there’s any significance to this but the Old Testament side is on the men’s section and has beautiful stained glass windows of Old Testament scenes. The women’s side has the New Testament stained glass windows. The church holds services throughout the day and I visited after one of the services and it was relatively empty but there was a small ceremony on the women’s side and they were kneeling on carpets praying. There is a very distinct influence of Islam in the Orthodox Church and the two religions seem to get along pretty well. The tombs of Haile Selassie and his wife are located inside the church.
The other night I had my first experience with injura—a traditional Ethiopian food in which they place a large circular bread (much like a pizza crust) on a lazy susan in the middle of the table. The bread is sour—very sour—some people can’t eat it but I really liked it. On top of the bread they put all kinds of meats and vegetables covered with yoghurt. You then have a personal piece of bread that you tear pieces off and use to pick up the meats and vegetables without any utensils. When the big crust is empty you eat it with all the juices soaked in. It’s actually very good if you can handle the sourness of the bread. Probably because of health concerns the hotel here serves it about pizza sized so you don’t share with the whole table.
I did a personal tour today with a guide because wandering the streets alone, especially for foreigners, can be increasingly risky but I found the crime problem here unique. Ethiopia is going through economic hard times right now. When you do get robbed, five men or boys walk up to you and one of them starts a conversation. Two of them drop down and grab your ankles and the other two each grab an arm and hold your limbs while the first one picks your pockets. Unless you resist, there is no violence and afterwards they often apologize for robbing you. These people on the streets are hungry!!!
I finished training at noon today and fly out at midnight for Paris and then a direct flight to Houston. The class ended up going very well and the students were excellent and very enjoyable to work with. At the end of the class my students gave me a traditional African shirt—very ethnic with an ornate Orthodox cross embroidered on the front. I may have it framed when I get home.
I have really enjoyed Ethiopia—the people have been very kind and very pleasant. I have found the country, despite the poverty, to be one of the most interesting I’ve visited in Africa.
A few more hours and I’m on my way home…..

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