The Curse of Kosovo.......

.....and while I don't pretend to under the complexities of nationalism and religion in this area, I do know that in many cases, hatreds have built up over centuries and centuries.  When I was in Zagreb a few years ago, somebody at the embassy told me a folklore story about the depth of the animosities in the Balkans.  As the story goes, God got tired of the endless bickering between the Serbs and Croats so he spoke to one of them and told them, "I will give you any wish you want, but to teach you humility, I will do double for your enemy."  Without hesitating, the man told God, "Please put out one of my eyes."

And yet this morning, after another bad night, I went down to the pedestrian mall and sat on a bench in the sun for over an hour and just watched the families strolling by and was thinking to myself how I wished we were that polite and courteous to each other back in the States.  But while I was sitting there, a group of Italian KFOR soldiers strolled by taking photos which I guess was a reminder that the people here aren't all that far away from not treating each other with politeness and courtesy.

I am still having stomach issues so I decided against the extended bus trip to Prizren this weekend.  Still, it was beautiful outside and I wanted to do something but just didn't want to get too far from the hotel.

After consulting with my guidebook, I decided on another relatively short taxi excursion about ten miles outside of Pristina to a place called Gazimestan, or the memorial complex of the Battle of Kosovo in 1389.  Also nearby is the mausoleum of the Sultan Murat's Turbe--who participated in the battle.  It was here that the "Curse of Kosovo" was uttered:

As you can see from the photo, the weather was absolutely beautiful.  The tanks and soldiers were gone, but today there was a Kosovo policeman at the gate and he did request, and keep, my passport while I was visiting.  I believe this place is still a volatile hot spot.

I am cutting and pasting a bit here: "The Gazimestan memorial tower stands in the fields where, in the summer of 1389, the Ottoman Empire clashed with the Serbian medieval kingdom, involving many tens of thousands of troops. Almost every aspect of the Battle of Kosovo is contested. While Serbs mark the clash on June 28, St Vitus Day, most believe it actually took place on June 15. And while Serbs often describe the battle as their empire’s defining defeat at the hands of the Ottomans, it was probably more of a draw. Less contentious is the fact that both Serbian Prince Lazar and Sultan Murat, leader of the Ottomans, died in the battle, along with thousands of others. Both men are thus commemorated at the site. The battle, to this day, plays an essential part in Serbian nationalist narrative, reinforcing the national identity as a bastion against the orient and Islam."

The tower was erected in 1953 on a raised platform that looks much like a castle turret.  At the front is the inscription of the Kosovo curse, supposedly written by Prince Lazar, the Serbian leader killed on the battlefield on 1389.....

Translated to English, it reads:

Whoever is a Serb and of Serb birth,

And of Serb blood and heritage,
And comes not to fight at Kosovo,
May he never have progeny born from love,
Neither son nor daughter!
May nothing grow that his hand sows,
Neither red wine nor white wheat!
 And may he be dying in filth as long as his children are alive!

 

Lazar was obviously disappointed at the turnout to support his cause, and as the words describe, his "Curse of Kosovo" was a true Balkan curse.

 

Several sources I've seen claim Serbia is particularly guilty of historical revisionism and that the folklore surrounding this battlefield is one of the most obvious examples.  After the battle, the Ottoman Empire continued across Europe until it reached the Vienna and remained for several centuries.  The battle also solidified, in Serbia's eyes at least, it's leadership role in defending and controlling what would become known as the Balkan States.  And that perceived role led to modern-day conflicts with Slovenia, Croatia and Kosovo.

 

Since the Kosovars never really identified with Serbia, fought for independence from Serbia, and are glad to be rid of them, I don't think the curse really affects them.  They probably endorse it.  Whether historically accurate or not, the date of June 28 has become one of the most important on the calendar:

 

 

I understand it is a national holiday in both Kosovo and Serbia, although for different reasons.  It was also on this date in 1914 that a Serb nationalist assassinated an Austrian archduke, leading to World War I.  On this date in 1921, the Yugoslavia federation was created with Serbia, Croatia and Slovenia--creating the basis for future conflicts in our lifetime. On June 28, 1989, the 600th anniversary of the original battle, Slobodan Milošević--the former president of Serbia--warned of future nationalist battles.  He would be involved in Serbian wars against independence movements in the area, including Kosovo, and would die in prison in 2006 during trials in The Hague for war crimes against humanity.  That speech, at this location, is credited with the modern breakup of Yugoslavia.

 

Although the battlefield is not developed as a historical site, the view from the top of the turret gives a nice view of the surrounding area including the mausoleum of the Sultan Murat's Turbe nearby. 

 

 

 

Including the taxi trip to the sultan's mausoleum was almost an afterthought, but turned out to be very interesting.

The building was constructed in the 1850s on the site believed to have been where his tent was pitched during the battle.  According to the site, he was attacked and killed by a knife attack during the battle.  He is not actually interred here, but his heart and intestines are buried at this site and his exterior body at a mausoleum he had previously constructed in Turkey.

One of the few survivors from the battle is a 700-year-old mulberry tree beside it, ..

Turkey also recently constructed a museum dedicated to the sultan.  The young guide I had spoke very good English and seemed very eager to present the material--visiting the mausoleum was a good idea.

 

After a Rough Night, I Hung Close to the Hotel Today But Did Check out the Central Mosque.....

.....I've been about half sick since I've been here but last night was really bad.  The planned trip to Macedonia fell through and I was going to take a bus to the old city of Prizren today but really was not up to it.

My hotel is close to the Old Town, which I've visited several times since I've been here but today I wanted to visit the central mosque, Mbretit (or Fatih), and look at the old market on a weekend day.

On the way, I noticed an ornate fountain I hadn't seen before and my guide book tells me it is the only remaining fountain that has survived modernization and I noticed that people do still use it for drinking water and to perform ablution--the ritual washing prior to praying in the mosque across the street.

The El-Fatih Mosque is the largest mosque in Pristina and was built by one of the Sultans in 1460-1461--several years before the conquest of Constantinople. 

It may be the largest mosque in Pristina and Kosovo, but compared to some of the mosques I visited in Cairo, it appears small.  The dome is 100 feet tall, and as in every mosque I've visited, is ornately decorated.

The interior was simple, covered entirely in carpet for praying, with a few ornate Muslim-equivalent of pulpits.

And while it is designed, like most mosques, to take advantage of natural light, it did have a very large and ornate chandelier.

A national icon, the El-Fatih Mosque is regarded as one of the city's grandest buildings. It was briefly turned into a Jesuit church during the Austro-Turkish Wars from 1690-1698, and was decorated with Swastikas by the German troops during the Second World War.

The attached courtyard has been shrunk by urban development but still contains another washing station for ablution. 

According to a bi-lingual sign on the grounds, the mosque is funded by Saudi Arabia, which I find odd since I don't think Saudi Arabia recognizes Kosovo independence.  The minaret had to be replaced after an earthquake in 1955 and, in 2010, the Turkish government funded extensive renovations.

Also by the courtyard, and I don't know if they were officially attached to the mosque itself, were some shops selling Islamic clothing, literature and religious items.  I purchased a prayer mat.

Also across, but on another side, are the remains of the once Great Hammam--or Turkish bath--again dating back to the 15th century.  The baths have not survived the ravages of time, however, and today are mostly just ruins.

I then walked down to the nearby bazaar and, as I expected, it was a lot more active on the weekend.  Mostly, the market sells produce and vegetables but there were also stalls and shops selling all kinds of other merchandise--most, I suspect, were illegal copies of designer clothing and accessories.  The place was a beehive of people mingling, blaring music and smells from the street vendors.

Slept much of the afternoon and if I have a good night tonight, I may try again to make the bus trip to Prizren.
 

Made Yet Another Trip to the Old Town After Work Today.....

.....to see something that was closed last time I was there--the Emin Gjiku complex.  The complex consists of a traditional 18th century house set in a walled complex with several other buildings.  It is the only original building left in the old bazaar area. It is named for the family of Emin Gjinolli, a wealthy and wealthy family of the period.  I had read that the walled complex was the last remaining reminder of the old bazaar period in Pristina and it was, in fact, very interesting.

Filled with antiques, it really did give a good idea of what it was like to live as a wealthy Kosovar three hundred years ago.

The terrace room was reserved for men only.....even the tea and food had to be served by make family members to guests.

 

It was a large home.....one room reserved for birthing and another room reserved for a death bed.  Another room I found interesting was the guest room, which had to be available at all times for any traveler--known or unknown--who showed up requesting shelter.  This obligation extended to allowing room and food for one's known enemies if they were in danger.

 

I'm not usually that into ethnic histories but I spent about an hour at the museum and was really pleasantly surprised how interesting it was.   On the way back to the hotel, I passed by the Kosovo Museum again and revisited to check out something I had missed the first time:  the Sitting Goddess of Tjerrtorja.

What's unusual about this terra cotta figurine is that it is thought to be as much as 6000 years old.  This tiny figurine was found near Pristina in 1956 and was one of many artifacts raided and taken to Serbia during the war period--and is the only one to have been returned to date.

This figurine is also the city symbol of Pristina and tensions were so high over it that there were fears another war could break out.  In the end, the matter went to the United Nations Security Council who demanded Serbia return the artifacts but, to date, only this small figurine has been returned to Pristina.

Over half way through this work week......
 

It Was Irish Night Out in Kosovo Last Night......

.....with dinner at Paddy O'Briens.

And while the food was good and the atmosphere really was authentic "Irish pub," I found myself eating a British meal of "bangers and mash," drinking a Kosovo beer, watching Australian rugby, and listening to American rock music on the speakers.  I'm sure Paddy was spinning in his grave......

I'm nearly mid-way through my second week here and the group this week is another good group: one from Kosovo; one from Bulgaria; one from Malta and a British guy attached to the American consulate in Munich.  As a gesture to the Bulgarian student, we ate lunch at a kebab restaurant  today and it was good enough I may go back again next week one day.

Next weekend will be my last free days here and I'm working on a possible trip down into Macedonia and back up into the old Medieval Kosovo town of Prizren.  If it develops, it should be a really special side trip.

Hung Around Pristina on Sunday.....

.....and decided to slow down a little.  I've not been feeling well since I've been here and finally got a normal night's sleep last night.

After returning from the monastery yesterday, I walked down to the Mother Teresa cathedral.  I had been told it was being converted from church to cathedral and had been damaged earlier, but it actually is a brand-new building.  And an unfinished cathedral at that:

As you would expect for a proper cathedral, the interior is enormous, and still in the process of being finished.

Years ago, when I was in the Army, a group of us took a tour of the Strasbourg cathedral in Germany and I remember them saying that a true cathedral is never truly finished--they are always in a state of repair or expansion--so I guess this is just the beginning for the "Cathedral of Blessed Mother Teresa in Pristina."  An interesting side note to the construction is that, while the cathedral is obviously Roman Catholic, the Kosovo government in 2007 approved the construction and the church's foundation was ceremonially laid by former Kosovo president who was Muslim.

I did sleep well last night and, in fact, I slept in this morning.  The days still get a little warm but the evenings and mornings are fairly cool.  They had another music festival at the pedestrian mall again last night and somebody at the hotel told me that in September, Kosovars tend to make one last run at outdoor activities before winter hits.  I understand they can have pretty severe winters here.

Another thing I discovered yesterday is that my credit card doesn't work here.  Two merchants told me I needed a pin, which I don't have for my credit card.  I called Chase on Skype and they told me they could issue me a pin but couldn't give it to me by phone or email--it would have to be sent to my house where there's nobody to pick it up now.  For whatever reason, they gave me a temporary pin that can be used at ATM's or at a bank but there's a $10 charge and 3% transaction fee.  I swear, once I retire from this job, Chase Bank is history......  I did check at the hotel and they do take credit cards without a pin.  I think I have plenty of cash but, saving it for the weekends, I'm basically eating at the hotel so I can put meals on my bill here.  The hotel has pretty good food though......

Anyway, when I did get up this morning, it was still pretty cool and I hiked up a pretty long hill behind the hotel to a place called Martyr's Hill.  On the way up, I sidetracked briefly at a pleasant city park.....

But Martyr's Hill was further up and when I got there, there was a lot of construction going on which is very common in Pristina.  Of course, with a modern national history of 14 years, I guess there's a lot of catching up to do.

This is another site that is politically charged and recently had KFOR protection as well but today it was pretty isolated.  I don't pretend to understand the complexities of the politics here other than to say they truly are complex.  Quoting from my guidebook, the monument here provides a good view of the city and Kosovo's recent political history.

Again, quoting, a bitter rivalry broke out between the pacifist leader Ibrahim Rugova and the political leaders of the Kosovo Liberation Army (KLA, or UCK in Albanian) that lasted even beyond his lifetime.  Martyr's Hill, after the war, had become a memorial to fallen KLA soldiers.

For every single one of these, the date of death was 1999.  The KLA, or UCK, often follows the Kosovo tradition of etching pictures of the person interred.

 When Rugova died in 2006, a dispute broke out as to whether he could be buried at Martyr's Hill alongside war veterans and members of the UCK.  I guess it would be comparable in the US to interring Jane Fonda in a Vietnam VA cemetery.

 

Anyway, he was buried a little further up the hill--separated from the war veterans--and, with all the construction going on, I was never sure if I found his grave but this may be it, but I'm not 100% sure.

 

 

I had read before, but saw today, a distinctly Kosovo burial tradition of placing large bowls of plastic flowers on grave sites.  It's unusual to me, but properly tended, I can see where it would be a nice remembrance.

 

 

Memories of the 1999 war are still very fresh here as evidenced by UCK memorials at other locations around Pristina. 

 

 

 

 

 Returning back to the city center, I looked up the city symbol "NEWBORN."  Erected during independence, it was originally intended as a celebration of that independence, it quickly became an icon representing Pristina and Kosovo--in some ways like the Eiffel Tower in Paris and the Arch in St. Louis:

 

 

On the way, I ran across a couple of soccer pubs--this one was definitely not A&M:

 

 

 

But this one was definitely Irish.  I checked the menu at Paddy O'Brien's and when my stomach's feeling better, I'll grab a lunch there:

 

 

Anyway, it was a good, and active weekend.  Back to work tomorrow.......

Saturday Morning I Visited an Old Serbian Village About Ten Miles from Pristina.....

.....and my main objective was to visit an old, old monastery there but also just to walk around in a more rural setting.

My first job at the embassy went well.  I did have problems taking my laptop inside, and that is a critical part of my training, however, after a half-day we got that sorted out.  I took my iPhone and they wouldn't let me take that inside either because it has a camera function.  So, instead, they cleared all the paperwork to get me a government-issued phone temporarily (but this phone also has a camera function too).  I'm actually kind of glad to have a local phone--mine doesn't work here--and it gives me yet a little more freedom of movement like calling for a taxi.

To get to the village of Gračanica, I took a taxi out of the industrial area of Pristina.  Once into the countryside, it became farmland very quickly.  As we approached the village, my taxi driver told me that Gračanica was a "Serbian village."  "Only Serbs live there," he emphasized.  I guess that, given the Serbian ethnic-cleansing in Kosovo, that would be significant given the resentment and retaliation factors from the Kosovars.

It's quiet today, but some fourteen years after the war, Swedish soldiers still guard the monastery.  Until recently, you had to show your passport to enter and they had a tank positioned in front of the gates but today that was gone.  Some soldiers remain, however.

Odd as it may seem, the old nuns in this monastery are protected by razor wire and KFOR (Kosovo Force) soldiers.  There were actually a lot of soldiers here but I had the impression many of them were there as tourists today.

This building is considered an example of Byzantine architecture and was completed in 1322.  My guide book says this area has been raided and sacked by the Romans, the Gauls, the Huns, Philip of Macedonia, multiple Turkish raids, the forces during World War I and later, the German Army in the second world war, and more recently, Serbian and NATO bombing.  Still, today, the nuns pray and make their wine and olive oil.

I thought the history was kind of interesting.  It was built by a King Milutin--a war-like Serbian king  from 1284-1321.  Reportedly he told God that, if he became king, he would build a new church every year of his reign.  He lasted 42 years--therefore 42 churches and this is considered his crown jewel.

It was built on the remains of a 6th century early Christian basilica and was designed as a Byzantine church formed in the shape of a cross with five cupolas--the largest and tallest being in the center of the cross.

I was taking pictures without flash, so the beauty of the frescoes doesn't really show through but the almost 700-year old stone walls are amazing.

The raiding armies could raid, sack, burn and pillage, but they couldn't tear these massive walls down.  Over the centuries, the monastery--like so many others in this area--has had priceless treasures destroyed and looted and ancient manuscripts burned.  But the frescoes--some of them 14th century originals--are in amazing shape and very clear although some of the lower-level ones have been badly vandalized.

From the beginning, the frescoes were the focal point of the church.  The king had married a daughter of the Byzantine Emperor who furnished a whole school of the finest artists to decorate the church.   Frescoes were also painted on the exterior.

The narthex and the tower were added a few decades later, in order to protect the frescoes on the west facade. The narthex was heavily damaged by the Turks several times between 1379–1383, when the tower was burned and the fire devoured a rich collection of manuscripts and other precious objects. The narthex was reconstructed in 1383. Again, Gračanica suffered damages at the time of the Battle of Kosovo (1389).

This frontal view shows the 1383 narthex today.  The two white pillars beside the door are the only remaining pieces of the original before the Turkish raids.

Inside the narthex is where most of the recent vandalism has occurred. 

The narthex also has a cupola--not part of the original church, but an amazing example of stone masonry in itself.  Remember, this "reconstructed" narthex dates back to the late 1300s.

During Ottoman rule Gračanica became an important cultural center and in the 1500s, several icons were painted on the altarpiece.

After the French forces reached this area during World War I, they decided to dedicate a plaque to "Serbian-French Friendship" and, for whatever reason, the French decided to embed the plaque in the middle of a 14th century fresco.  You can see it in the lower right of the photo on the pillar--a black square in the middle of a Medieval bishop.  Geez, guys, I doubt if the Serbs considered you that good of friends......

It was also shortly after Gutenberg developed his printing press in Germany that the technology spread and a press was established at this church around 1500.  Because of this, Gračanica became a cultural and learning center.  Of course, most of the old manuscripts printed here have been burned or destroyed.

Outside the church, there are still a few artifacts that have survived the ravages of time:

But today the church and monastery are mostly about the frescoes.  After World War II, the place became a convent and nunnery and today about 24 sisters live here and the convent is known for icon painting, artwork, vineyards and the nuns operate a winery.

The nuns are very open to visitors and I talked briefly with an older nun who spoke excellent English.
They obviously have a very good rapport with the Swedish soldiers here and speak English with them as well.  When I bought some souvenirs in the gift shop, a younger nun talked me into buying a bottle of their red wine, so now I have to figure out how to get that home in my checked luggage without it getting broken.

After leaving the monastery, I walked around Gračanica a bit but there wasn't much else here.  This is basically what a Serbian village looks like in rural Kosovo......

I called my taxi driver on the Embassy-supplied phone and he picked me up and returned me to the hotel.  This was a very worthwhile trip.

Sometime, after I get back home, I'll celebrate something and open the bottle of red wine and toast the nuns of Gračanica......