Saturday, September 14, 2013

After a Rough Night, I Hung Close to the Hotel Today But Did Check out the Central Mosque.....

.....I've been about half sick since I've been here but last night was really bad.  The planned trip to Macedonia fell through and I was going to take a bus to the old city of Prizren today but really was not up to it.

My hotel is close to the Old Town, which I've visited several times since I've been here but today I wanted to visit the central mosque, Mbretit (or Fatih), and look at the old market on a weekend day.

On the way, I noticed an ornate fountain I hadn't seen before and my guide book tells me it is the only remaining fountain that has survived modernization and I noticed that people do still use it for drinking water and to perform ablution--the ritual washing prior to praying in the mosque across the street.


The El-Fatih Mosque is the largest mosque in Pristina and was built by one of the Sultans in 1460-1461--several years before the conquest of Constantinople. 


It may be the largest mosque in Pristina and Kosovo, but compared to some of the mosques I visited in Cairo, it appears small.  The dome is 100 feet tall, and as in every mosque I've visited, is ornately decorated.


The interior was simple, covered entirely in carpet for praying, with a few ornate Muslim-equivalent of pulpits.


And while it is designed, like most mosques, to take advantage of natural light, it did have a very large and ornate chandelier.



A national icon, the El-Fatih Mosque is regarded as one of the city's grandest buildings. It was briefly turned into a Jesuit church during the Austro-Turkish Wars from 1690-1698, and was decorated with Swastikas by the German troops during the Second World War.

The attached courtyard has been shrunk by urban development but still contains another washing station for ablution. 


According to a bi-lingual sign on the grounds, the mosque is funded by Saudi Arabia, which I find odd since I don't think Saudi Arabia recognizes Kosovo independence.  The minaret had to be replaced after an earthquake in 1955 and, in 2010, the Turkish government funded extensive renovations.

Also by the courtyard, and I don't know if they were officially attached to the mosque itself, were some shops selling Islamic clothing, literature and religious items.  I purchased a prayer mat.


Also across, but on another side, are the remains of the once Great Hammam--or Turkish bath--again dating back to the 15th century.  The baths have not survived the ravages of time, however, and today are mostly just ruins.


I then walked down to the nearby bazaar and, as I expected, it was a lot more active on the weekend.  Mostly, the market sells produce and vegetables but there were also stalls and shops selling all kinds of other merchandise--most, I suspect, were illegal copies of designer clothing and accessories.  The place was a beehive of people mingling, blaring music and smells from the street vendors.


Slept much of the afternoon and if I have a good night tonight, I may try again to make the bus trip to Prizren.
 

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